Wednesday (19/12/12) started pretty early in the morning. At
6am we gathered on the bow of the ship to witness how the JCR would pass
through the Lemaire Channel. This is one of the most narrow bits around the
area through which the ship fits and it reminded a little bit of the final scene
in Lord of the Rings when the sailing ships leave. Only difference that we had
snow on the mountains ;) On the way we saw minke whales, crabeater seals
(crabbies) and gentoo penguins. The latter were pretty special: 1. They are
penguins, they have to be and 2. They “climb” up the walls to find spots
without snow to breed and raise their youngsters. We also drove through an area
with lots and lots of little icefloats/bergs on the water. I can’t really
describe the noise but it was loud and just incredible. On top of that pictures
just could not capture the amazing landscape! It is better than Frozen Planet! |
| Maria and Jacqueline (the Dutch scientists) bought me a little glas penguin in the souvenir shop. |
At around 8am (after missing breakfast – it was totally
worth the scenery) we arrived at Vernadsky – Ukrainian base (former British
base). First of all the RIBs with some crew members approached the base,
delivered some cargo (fresh fruits, veg, etc) and asked whether it would be ok
for us to visit. After the Yes from the base commander, two RIBs started
bringing us across. Thanks to all the crew involved driving forth and back! (This
was the first of many journeys I will have in Antarctica on a small boat and
hence I was really excited!) We were welcomed very warmly on base, showed
around and thanked for the things we had brought. They dished up cake,
chocolate and more. Some of us were brave enough to try the homemade vodka
offered. I was too distracted taking pictures of penguins from the balcony. In
the beginning I was so excited that I said: “I really love penguins. So cool!!!”
It was one of those moments where everyone was silent at that exact point in
time so my outcry was followed by a lot of laughter :D
The bar is pretty special, as it was build with lots of
effort by two wintering carpenters when the base was still British.
Unfortunately, they were supposed to do something else with the wood and their
time on base; I don’t think they made it back to Antarctica after that.
However, the bar does look pretty impressive. There is also a pound coin on the
bar which is symbolic for the payment the Ukrainian gave the British for the
base. One of our passengers on board (Dave) wintered in the 80s on this base
... 
I soon found my way out and sat down next to some of the
penguins taking lots and lots and lots of pictures (did I mention that they are
the cutest thing ever??). Some of them guarded the eggs, others went for a swim
and porpoised (I learned that that means jumping around in the water like
dolphins), some just stood around and some picked stones for their nests. One
of the penguins was really adventurous and ended up surveying the nosy humans
sitting close by, standing only a meter or two away from us J The sun was gorgeous
and I did not need more than my two jumpers to keep me warm. Good job I put
suncream on in the morning ... It was a “dingle” day in BAS terms (new word I
learned today and describes lovely sunshine with calm sea – the perfect day). In
the end, when leaving, I was sad to part with my beloved penguins, however I
was also glad to still have my bra ... I was told before we went to Vernadsky
that I should wear a plain and old bra which I would not miss afterwards as the
base is known for asking for women’s bras (they still do not seem to have many
female visits). I gladly escaped this fate.
The day ended nicely, we left late afternoon and are now on
the way to Rothera, due to arrive late evening tomorrow/early morning on
Friday. This leaves us 2 more nights on the ship.
 |
| The trail is visible where penguins regularly walk up and down to feed their young! |
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